DAY 4
Whilst in this remote village Latifa organised for us to eat with a local family and see how they prepared food for their family. The host cooked bread on the walls of a stone oven with embers in for us to eat. It tasted lovely with honey, olive oil and eggs. 

One surprise was watching her make the most lovely mint tea yet seeing six large blocks of sugar go in the teapot - the equivalent of 36 sugar cubes! Good job we had a big walk back to the Kasbah the next day. The next stop was a weaving workshop where women and their young families spent the whole day weaving rugs. It was a concrete block, small building which was freezing. They were very pleased to see us and gave us mint tea, popcorn and walnuts.

Our stay at the Lodge was finished off by traditional musical storytelling by the Lodge chef, our travelling chef, their friend and our mule man. They had us dancing and singing - including a solo rendition of Hen Wlad Fy Nhadau by Janet, they were clearly impressed. A night to remember. ​

Many thanks to Wendy Cottis for stepping in to help create this blog, at a time when it was much appreciated.

A week jam packed with a variety of activities, terrains and points of interest; our main mission being to discover the original sites of the blue stones and the possibly disputed, original site of Stonehenge.
I had planned this week of intrigue way back in the summer but nearer the time, due to health issues, it very nearly didn't happen Thanks to Alan Ward's support and help it did - he was even prepared to run the whole week without me and take the risk of being leader for 10 free-spirited and witty women!! Would he have survived??

Day 2 The Golden Road
An ancient Neolithic track used as a travellers route to and from Ireland, perhaps carrying gold.
We left the farm at 0900, meeting Bethan and Lyn up a Bwlch- gwynt, the starting point. It was very windy and very murky but all the group are as tough as old leather (not in appearances!!!) and just get on with it, no fuss. It was a linear walk taking us first to Foel Feddau (bare graves) a Bronze Age cairn and then on to Carn Goedog (wooded hoof) the site where the majority of the spotted Dolomite stones at Stonehenge came from. Hitech geological testing has been done on the stones to prove this beyond doubt. The group photo above is at this site.
Then on to Carn Menyn (butter) - the stones up here do look like packs of butter. The route is undulating and not particularly difficult, the only real uphill follows from here up to the top of the Iron Age fort Foeldrygarn which has a trig point (363m). It was extremely windy on reaching here. A huge site with the remains of three ramparts.
It was a cross country route back to a PROW that would take us back to Rhostwarch - the terrain proved tricky but quite fun actually picking our way through gorse, bog and tufty grasses. Again the group proved their steadfast abilities and determination.

A great day and lovely cosy accommodation to come home to. It was satisfying to walk all the way back to the farm but because of inaccessible footpaths (the farmer could pre warn us) it made the route tricky and not straight forward so next time I'll leave the van in a suitable place for the finish point.

Day 4 Solva Circular
Another prompt start  - all the group being ready and reliable. It was another dreary start but we were all raring to go. This was a logistically challenging day which I hoped would all fall into place, which thankfully it did. We parked at Solva Woollen Mill, having had advanced permission to park there all day and set off from here up the hill on the edge of the Solva valley, then taking a path around the perimeter of the disused St David's Airfield, we could then pick up a bridleway which would give us an easy and safe crossing across the busy A487. Then we could see the sea!! .. and the sun came out! We were ok for time too - I had booked 'The Cafe on the Quay' in Solva for lunch, submitting our preorder. The cafe had very kindly opened for us as since I arranged our booking they had decided to close on a Wednesday and Thursday. The food and service was spot on and the best coffee I've had in a long time. 
We arrived back at the mill in plenty of time for us to browse and spend - I think it was well worth them having Bryn Walking parking there all day. 

The walk was full of interesting features and a whole mixture of views and terrain - a really good one and the timings worked well.
To finish a lovely day off and to make the last night special I had booked a meal at the Royal Oak in Newport. All went according to plan.

Day 4  A Day of Discovery
We checked out at 0830 and all met up at Bwlch-gwynt, piled into my bus and trundled back down the road to Tafarn -y-bwlch. We wanted to find the original site for Stonehenge - and we did!! The whole hill Waun Mawn (339m) is very spiritual and mystical. The bright rising sun, long shadows and wild ponies all contributed to the atmosphere - none of us really wanted to leave. Then on to Pentre Ifan Burial Chamber - a well preserved 5000 year old tripod of massive stones. It's very impressive. Coffee stop here before driving on to Craig Rhosyfelin where at least one of the blue stones at Stonehenge originates along with 1200 loose stone chipping found in the ground at Stonehenge. This site feels otherworldly and certainly a place of significance. The rocks, just like up at Carn Goedog have natural weaknesses that were exploited so that obelisk shaped pieces could be prised off.
Back up at Bwlch-gwynt we said our good byes and everyone headed home.
Thank you to everyone involved for making this a superb week.

This was a private trek for me and my husband James, provided by Dreamland Trek and Tour. Alan Ward prepared an itinerary with Dreamland for us that included the hotel stays pre and post trek. Our crew was: a guide, a cook, a pony man, 5 ponies and 1 donkey. We carried our day packs (35ltr rucksack). We were given excellent pre-trek information such as kit lists for both day pack and kit bag, what food to expect on trek and advise for the altitude. The route is remote, the first 2 days especially so; the scenery is breathtaking - the amazing geology and the wild flowers; the Tibetan Buddhist culture surrounds you with stupas, gompas, mani walls and prayer flags - it's so much to take in, you want to come back as soon as you leave.

The Hotel - Omasila
Great accommodation and obliging service. Our room (pre- trek) had a fabulous view of Stok Kangri (6123m).

TREK DAY 1 Stok to Changmar 
Picked up at 0815 and driven to Javeed's office. We met the cook. The driver couldn’t get the boot open, it caused a lot of commotion. We were driven to Stok to the start of walk and waited for the ponies and pony man. It was up from the start but gentle and quite hard going because of the thin air. We had to a cross river twice because the water was high and we couldn’t get round the bank. The water was so so cool and the current very strong and it was up to my knees. Idga steadied me and I had found a stick. Then only metres on we had to cross again. No stick this time, higher and very strong , I thought I’d be sweep off my feet and clung onto Idga, I couldn’t see where my feet were going at all. It was all very fun. We found some shade for lunch and we were more than half way. There were many different flowers which I couldn't identify but I took photos. The smell of the flowers is very strong. We got to the camp at about 1500. Idga put mats in the shade for us by the river. Wasn’t long til the pony’s arrived and they set-to making camp, highly organised. We were then brought tea on a tray! Unbelievable - it felt embarrassingly colonial. 
Dinner was: 
Mushroom soup, 
Dahl and Veg curry

Altitude of camp: 4000m
Trek distance: approx 12km
Total ascent: unsure
​Trek time: 4hrs

TREK DAY 2 Changmar to Rumbuk via high pass Stok La (4870m)
This was our typical time table for each morning:
​0630 Bed tea and Washing water 
0700 Breakfast
0750 Ready to go
It was fairly hard going, and got steeper and steeper. Our guide tried a shorter route but it was badly eroded so we had to turn back. It was up and up to the very top of two valleys, zig zagging. We saw more blue sheep and an eagle. The paths were sometimes very loose, fairly steep and very narrow, traversing across expansive steep slopes. We reached the first high pass 4807m, the views from here were magnificent, and then we contoured round the head of the adjacent valley and then more zigzags up to Stok La 4870m where there were lots of Prayer flags. We had lunch here. Idga put up some new prayer flags up and shouted a prayer on arrival. The way  down was initially very steep and very loose but we made it quick - we were soon at Rumbak. James was suffering badly from firstly the ascent but also the sun on the descent. Idga put our mats by the stream and we rested there in the shade (awaiting tea and biscuits). I put my feet in the freezing cold stream which was very nice. I got James to use my cooling towel and we discussed options for tomorrow - whether he could be picked up or to carry on. I reiterated to him about sun cream and keeping covered ie wearing trousers. 
It soon got cold and dinner was ready at 6pm. I found the toilets but didn’t realise it was a 2 story building and tried to enter on the ground floor only to see an enormous pile of poo - Upper floor always best option, lesson learnt. 
Dinner was:
Pop corn
Chips
Noodles
Curried eggs in tomato sauce
Apple fritters
​The Cook cooked me a noodle stir fry

Altitude of camp: 3901m
Trek distance: approx 13km
Total ascent: 890m
​Trek time: 7.5hrs
​

On reaching the high pass 4960m  we could see Shingo from here, our destination, and its yellow fields of barley. A long  way down. 
Soon after arrival at Shingo campsite we were given lovely noodles with maybe bits of spinach in a veg broth perhaps - delicious. It was nice to have time to relax in the sun. We were always brought tea and buscuits on a tray and this is something we really looked forward to. 
Dinner was:
Pasties filled with veg - The cook is a genius- how he makes pasties on a twin gas burner is very puzzling.
Cheese lumps in spices
Soup
Mixed tinned fruit

Altitude of camp: 3380m
Trek distance: approx 14.7km
Total ascent: 1025m
​Trek time: 7hrs

TREK DAY 4 Shingo to Skyu
A little bit later start. Unfortunately I had to use the toilet hut at 5am in the morning, so head torch required - not the easiest place to negotiate even in the light. It looked quite cute; a stone building, no roof, tiny door and inside a square area no more than 1.5x1.5, a small hole (not designed for women) in the floor dropping down to a room with no door, a large flat stone either side of the hole. This lower level drains into the irrigation channel that runs through the campsite. 
Breakfast was:
Puddis- very nice
Cornflakes with hot milk
Omelette 

​We set off about 0815 down the valley that closes in becoming a spectator gorge. You could see that it changes every year with mud being carried down with rain and the level of the water way, way above it was today. In 2010 a group came down the valley in August and got caught up in the flash flood , 4 of them lost their lives (see photo of memorial and prayer flags). I was surprised that much of the mountains seem to be made up of compacted mud and stone and even where you see bedrock, it looks shalely and unstable. Where they have dug out new roads into the sides of the mountains such as Rumbuk and the Marka Valley, it looks unsustainable - where they have dug out it is unsupported and already fast eroding. I imagine clearing the roads of fallen mud and stone is endless and after copious rain much of the loose mountain side where they have dug would be washed away.

James was unsure about carrying on passed Markha so Idga called Javeed to see what the options were. We thought we would have a noodle snack like yesterday but nothing arrived so it was a long wait from 1300 til 1800 when we were called for tea. We had been brought 2 lots of tea to drink though, we were just starving. I did have a stash of biscuits which we rationed. We passed the time by doing some hand washing - about the only time I use my big trek towel. If you ring out your item and then roll up in a towel, squeezing as you go, it's a great way to get every bit of excess water out. Catching the last bit of sun, we managed to get everything dry.
​Dinner was:
Some very spicy soup 
A pizza- absolutely amazing and a gorgeous pie ! - apple and dried fruit. All cooked in a saucepan.
...and all delicious

​Altitude of camp: 3341m
Trek distance: approx 10km
Total ascent: 16m Total descent: 726m
​Trek time: 3hrs

TREK DAY 5 Skyu to Markha
Early start, bed tea at 0630. I decided to put water purification tabs in my water today, as at 3300m water boils at approx. 88C so possibly isn't going to kill all those pathogens.  James had to make a decision so he decided to carry on. 
Breakfast was:
Porridge with honey
Chapatis
Omelette 

We started out around 0800 and the sun soon got very very hot. I thought we had 18km ahead of us and was glad I didn’t know it was 22km.  The Markha valley may be beautiful but now with a road (a very dusty track) and electricity meandering through, it makes it an arduous walk. So hot, and very hot on our feet. A complete contrast to the first 4 days. I think a night at Skyu campsite and being driven the next day to Markha would be a much better option. 
We stopped at the first tea shop run by the next village and had sea buckthorn juice, it was very nice. I bought a tiny woollen bag. Idga had told us about the berries being harvested and I knew of someone who promoted this on Facebook- it turned out to be a friend on Idga. 
We stopped at a campsite for a break, another tea tent and then lunch in the shade in a small copses area and another tea tent about an hour from Markha. 
No river crossing because bridges have been put in.

The Homestay - Markha village
​The new bit of Markha NW end was washed away this year and last year by flash flooding after rain. Only a scene of devastation remains. There was a home stay in the old part so we stayed there (their turn). A very different experience. James wasn’t very well on arrival. 
Dinner was:
We were given mokmok a traditional Ladakhan dish. Filled pasta, a bit like ravioli but bigger and no sauce. It was very nice.
​It’s been a hard day today 22km in heat. It was quiet at the homestay, and I am not sure we had the full experience that some trekkers do, but it was nice to experience something of the simple home and life in the remote valley.
The route to the toilet first takes you over a few hose pipes and ruts and then along a short precipice path, no more than 30cm wide at the side of a ‘dead hole’ a good metre and a half drop with a horses hoof and a tail remaining. If you arrive safely at the toilet hut then it’s the usual. 

Altitude of homestay: 3823m
Trek distance: approx 22.7km
Total ascent: 538m
​Trek time: 7hrs and 45mins

TREK DAY 6 Markha to Thachungtse
Early start at 0800 so bed tea at 0700. We were up at 0615 to pack. The wash room is two buckets of cold water and a jug. I found it fine but James didn’t like it much.
Breakfast was:
Chapatis and honey - see photo of our host making these on a simple stove outside.
......We were missing the camp cook!!
The first bit of the route was similar to yesterday, a dusty track. Soon after setting off the Techa gompa can be seen high up on the cliffs. A narrow path makes its way up but we didn't go. We soon came down close to the river and had to put our sandals on. It was great fun. So so cold, the pain was immense but didn’t last long. We reached Umlung where there was a tea tent. A big sign outside said homemade cakes but we weren’t in luck. An old man with his very sweet grandson (looked about 3yrs) were there. I bought some lovely soft socks (for cold nights ahead) and a couple of pendants for Mollie and Mikey (Oli and Jim's girlfriends, respectively). James asked for coffee - it is always delivered as a glass of hot milk and a jar of instant coffee. They don't really do coffee in Ladakh - their preferred drink is 'milk tea', tea made with hot milk and salt. Kang Yatse (6400m) comes into sight soon after this with its snowy peak. 
On to the next tea tent which was Hankar, a eco cafe run by women. Exactly the same menu as the one by Skyu. The only drinks are available despite the snacks listed, which was funny. We had a glass of jimbo (sweet) juice made from the sea buckthorn berries. Nice. There is a water mill here, still used for grinding the barley grain for their bread. The tea tents are typically made with timber supporting a huge white cover which is a parachute that was previously used when supplies were dropped in.
On and on up the valley passing to a couple of  splits in the path that takes you on different trekking routes (glad we had a guide). We saw some blue sheep on the way and lots of donkeys (bompu in Ladakhi). 
We reached Thachungtse at 1415 which was good, plenty of time to rest. It’s hot when the sun is out but quite cold otherwise. We had tea brought to us twice. It’s seemed a long time until dinner time. The river was very noisy, a roar rather than a burble but a nice noise all the same. 
Dinner was: I don't have a record but it start with popadoms

Altitude of camp: 4224m
Trek distance: approx 17.4km
Total ascent: 508m
​Trek time: 6.5hrs

TREK DAY 7 Thachungtse to Nimaling
It was going to be a relaxed start today as we didn’t have far to go to Nimaling. BUT it started to rain at 3am and didn’t stop until about 7am. At 5am I realised that everything was getting wet inside the tent. A nightmare. I move everything on to the mat and my kit bag but about 30mins later the wet started to come through the mats. Then I discovered it was wet in my kit bag too. We just had to get dressed carefully and get out of the tent. Idga was up too so we were invited into the kitchen tent for a cup of tea. It was so cold. Idga had been up in the night checking the muddy slopes for signs of land slips.
So it turned out breakfast was early. We packed up, I put everything wet in one bag, salvaged what was dry of my clean undies, packed up my wet sleeping bag in the hope I’d be able to dry it later in the day. 
We set off in waterproofs, puffer jackets, gloves, hats. An unbelievable difference to what we’d had. 
Breakfast was:
Cereal was hot milk
Omelette 
Thick pancakes with honey - yum. 

It was a steady up all the way to 4811m and saw marmots, pretty birds, Pika (hamsters) and the scenery was amazing- really strange rock formations the other side of the valley. At the highest point there are two lakes, one with a Buda floating in the middle. On a clear day Kang Yatse would be the backdrop and the reflection in the clear water, but not for us unfortunately now the weather had taken a turn. There is a brick, square, flat roofed building which is actually a very small temple. Idga showed us inside and he lit an oil candle and said some prayers.
​Nimiling is in a very wide, soggy, flat valley with very remote and simple farms. Idga showed us to one of the farms, run by women who lived in a one room stone hut all summer. When we arrived we were shown a communal tea tent. A bit stuffy inside. A strange women from Poland asked us if we had any medication for chest and nose problems- I said no obviously because when it comes down to it, we want to get home too. I did lend my pulseoximeter though. When the ponies arrived we followed them out of this strange camp (the was music blasting out and there were loads of tents, apparently the homestay accommodation). We had a nice, quiet spot in the plateau.
It was sunny for and 30mins and then snow, and loads of it.  James and Idga had put up our tent so we quickly got in. It was coming down thick and fast.  First they brought us tea and then a bit later on loads of spicy noodle soup- so so nice. 
Idga came to scrape the snow off the tent and then dug a drainage channel all around it. 
Dinner was:
Chucks of the dairy stuff that I'm not sure of the name (comes out of a tin)
Veg stew with pasta and veg
Tinned mixed fruit, warmed

Altitude of camp: 4841m
Trek distance: approx 8km
Total ascent: 584m
​Trek time: 4hrs

About 30mins before our destination Idga pointed out the sour spring at Chuskyurmo. Chusk means water. The spring water is used for medicinal purposes.
At about 1400 we arrived at our campsite at Chogdo. Sunshine at last for a short while but we did manage to get a few things dry. Tea and noodles were brought. There was a small cow in the patch next to us that wasn't tethered, it just seemed to know its space and neither did it trample on or eat the lovely veg patch. Right by here was the toilet tent which consisted of some old tarpaulin wrapped round a few sticks of a height of about 4ft and a bit of a curtain type door, and of course, a hole in the ground. 
We watched a farmer on the otherside of the river herd his many goats down the very steep and loose mountain side, no dog, he just whistled occasionally. 
It was cold once the sun had gone  down behind the mountains and it started to rain a bit. We were called for tea. I had asked Idga if we could all eat together; Beem the cook, pony man and Idga as it was our last night. He said we would but I think they felt uncomfortable with that. Beem had made a cake!!! - incredible. A small container inside a larger saucepan and sealed with foil and a lid, on the gas. He’d iced it too. We ate the cake together and we handed out our tips and I gave them a buff each and some snacks.  
Dinner was:
Pizza
Spicy tuna
Cabbage with a dressing
Cake - fantastically yummy, with icing too.

Altitude of camp: 3943m
Trek distance: approx 12.6km
Total ascent: 437m Total descent: 1259m
​Trek time: 6hrs

ROAD TRIP - PANGONG LAKE  and NUBRA VALLEY  
A selection of photographs from our 3 day road trip.

My review for Dreamland Trek and Tour:
From arriving in Leh, at the Dreamland office, to departure our experience was without complaint or hitch. We were given the trip of a lifetime with every detail so calmly organised. Our guide Idga was excellent- so good at planning, very knowledgeable and reliably looking after us. The cook Beem was a genius and a true character and the pony man kept happy healthy ponies and the little donkey.
The scenery was breathtaking and every corner turned, a different vista. My favourite bits were the high passes, what a wonderful feeling. Javeed made sure we had the best experience and organised at trip to Pangong Lake and Nubra Valley after our trek where we had a ride on two hump camels. Can’t fault anything- Can’t wait to go back. Thank you Javeed, Idga, Beem, our pony man and our driver Ali.

Hopefully I’ll be back next year when maybe, just maybe, Pumlumon will favour us with sunshine and views. Fingers crossed.
THE END

Thank you Wendy!