Annapurna Base Camp Trek November 2023

Photograph credit - Wendy Cottis

A memorable trek in the Annapurna region of the Himalayas. We flew to Kathmandu via Doha and stayed at the Ambassador Hotel in Kathmandu. Tulsi Gyawali of Nepal Sanctuary Treks had put the itinerary together with Alan Ward. We started with a city tour of Kathmandu.
On Day 6 of the trek we reached the Annapurna Base Camp (4130m) of Annapurna South (7219 m). The sacred mountain Machhapuchchhre (6997m) remained in our view for most of the trek, looking over us. Our main Guide Tensing was very experienced, caring and kind. He did his utmost to make our trek enjoyable and to suit our needs. Tulsi the trek provider made sure our whole trip was memorable and provided luxury accommodation in Kathmandu and Pokhara, he also treated us all to a Nepalese dinner on the last night - something I had never experienced before and will always remember - it was a high quality night both in terms of food and entertainment, very unusual indeed. Thank you Tulsi for this superb trip of a life time and to Alan Ward who made it happen. Alan is always thinking ahead and made several changes throughout the trip to better our experience - he hatches a plan and carries it through, we relied on him!

For a more detailed account of our time in Kathmandu, please read Alan Ward's interesting blog with lots of fabulous photographs. Link to Alan's blog - annapurna base camp

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Pre Trek 
​A selection of photographs from our Kathmandu city tour and journey to Pokhara.

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Annaperna Base Camp Trek Itinerary

Please note that sometimes my tracker didn't collect data accurately as is often the case in mountainous terrain.

Day 1 November 9th
Dampus to Pothana
Distance: 3.37km
Total ascent: 299m
Total descent: 32.5m
Max altitude: 2002m
Walking time: 1.25 hr ​

Trekking highlight: Seeing the sign Dhampus twinned with Brecon, Wales, UK in the Himalayas! First glimpses of Machapuchchhre and Annapurna South.

Lodge: Hotel Vacation Home (Pothana)
Altitude: 1983m
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My rating for the Lodge (max 40)
Food: 10
Ambience: 10
Shower and toilet: 8
Sleeping: 10
Total: 38

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Day 2 November 10th
Pothana to Jhinu
Distance: 20.48km
Total ascent: 1248m
Total descent: 1519m
Max altitude: 2018m
Walking time:  8hr ​40mins

Trekking highlight: The true realisation of where we were and our first experiences of the culture and way of life and the Annapurna range getting increasing closer.

Lodge: Hot Spring Cottage (Jhinu)
​Altitude: 1775m
​
My rating for the Lodge (max 40)
Food: 10
Ambience: 9
Shower and toilet: 9
Sleeping: 10
Total: 38

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Day 3 November 11th
Jhinu to Bamboo
Distance: 14.3km
Total ascent: 1514m
Total descent: 928m
Max altitude: 2488m
Walking time:  9hr ​

Trekking highlight: ​Walking through the traditional villages between Chromrong and Bamboo - lovely old buildings, rice fields, water buffalo and chickens.

Lodge: Bamboo Guest House (Bamboo)
​Altitude: 2264m
​
My rating for the Lodge (max 40)
Food: 8
Ambience: 7
Shower and toilet: 6
Sleeping: 9
Total: 30

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Day 4 November 12th
Bamboo to Deurali
Distance: 13km
Total ascent: 1629m
Total descent: 691m
Max altitude: 3253m
Walking time:  7hr ​

Trekking highlight: The snow blowing off the top of the sacred mountain Machupachchhre (6997m) - it looked like smoke, I think we were quite lucky to see these conditions. ​Could this be what was believed to be the smoke from the divine incense of the god of Shiva?

Lodge: Hotel View Point (Deurali)
​Altitude: 3208m
​
My rating for the Lodge (max 40)
Food: 10
Ambience: 10
Shower and toilet: 10
Sleeping: 10
Total: 40

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Day 5 November 13th
Deurali to MBC (Machhapuchchhre Base Camp)
Distance: 6.5km
Total ascent: 1811m
Total descent: 1340m
Max altitude: 3742m
Walking time:  3hr ​20min

Trekking highlight: Coming down close to the river Modi Khola which had been in view or ear shot over the last couple of days. It's icy, turquoise waters rapidly flowing down the valley. Now being well above 3000m the jungle type trees had disappeared leaving a much more remote and rugged landscape. The increasing feeling that these mountains that were towering over us really were in charge - 'don't mess with us' you could almost hear them saying.

Lodge: Shankar Guest House (MBC)
​Altitude: 3691m
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My rating for the Lodge (max 40)
Food: 10
Ambience: 8
Shower and toilet: 10
Sleeping: 10
Total: 38

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Day 6 November 14th
MBC (Machhapuchchhre Base Camp) to Himalaya vis ABC (Annapurna Base Camp)
Distance: 19.5km
Total ascent: 502m
Total descent: 1289m
Max altitude: 4130m
Walking time:  8.5hr 

Objective achieved
​We reached Machhapuchchhre Base Camp (3700m) in the afternoon of the 13th November, with beautiful winter sunshine. We were warm on the terrace while eating our lunch which was lovely fresh food, as always. Machhapuchchhre was looking over us again, this time at close range – we really felt at its foothills. We all decided to do a bit a washing as it was so sunny but in hindsight this was silly because the winter sun was soon gone and in the morning our items were hanging on the line frozen.

After lunch Tensing suggested that we walked halfway up to ABC to acclimatise. This we did. The sun had not only gone but thick afternoon mist had descended into the valley. We walked to 3900m and then returned to MBC. Thankfully it lifted before it got dark and we were able to go and have a look at the glacial valley at the foot of Machhapuchchhre. It was amazing. The common room was very cold as temperatures had dropped to sub-zero, so we were early to bed and were to expect bed tea at 0530 ready for a 0630 start. We were very lucky with the weather and could see all the mountain tops except for Annapurna I (the highest in the horseshoe). It’s an easy gradual ascent and nobody struggled with the altitude, but we didn’t outstay our welcome at the Base Camp, as affects soon might set in. We were elated on reaching the Annapurna Base Camp (4130m) and took many photos. We did take the opportunity to have a quick cup of tea while there – well, why not have the highest cup of tea on the trek!

Trekking highlights: Reaching ABC all safe and well! The weather being very much in our favour, we could see all the peaks except for Annapurna I. In the horseshoe - Patel Hiunchuli (6441m),  Annapurna South (7219m), Bharha Chuli (7647m), Annapurna I (8091m), Singh Chuli (6501m), Annapurna III (7555m). The glacial valleys are amazing.

Lodge: Himalaya
​Altitude: 2900m
​
My rating for the Lodge (max 40)
Food: 10
Ambience: 10
Shower and toilet: 10
Sleeping: 10
Total: 40

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Day 7 November 15th
 Himalaya to Chomrong
No Data 

Trekking highlight: Seeing Lounger monkeys in their natural habitat and also two more Yellow Throated Martins (bit like a Pine Martin). It was great to be reunited with the rest of the group.

Lodge: Excellent View Top Lodge (Chomrong)
​Altitude: 2200m​
My rating for the Lodge (max 40)
Food: 10
Ambience: 9
Shower and toilet: 10
Sleeping: 10
Total: 39

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Day 8 November 16th
Chomping to Tadapani
Distance: 11.5km
Total ascent: 1132m
Total descent: 670m
Max altitude: 2690m
Walking time:  7hr 

Trekking highlight: To cover new ground, beautiful wooded paths and interesting undulating terrain. Watching eagles soaring up above and a huge bee hive in a tree where we stopped for a short break at the Sunshine Restaurant. 

Lodge: Himalaya Tourist Guest House (Tadapani)
​Altitude: 2688m​
My rating for the Lodge (max 40)
Food: 10
Ambience: 10
Shower and toilet: 10
Sleeping: 7
Total: 37

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Day 9 November 17th
Tadapani to Ghorepani
Distance: 10.8km
Total ascent: 970m
Total descent: 676m
Max altitude: 3200m
Walking time:  7hr 

Trekking highlight: Reaching the Thapla Danda view point. Beautiful and varied scenery. Another delicious Dal Bat lunch at Hotel Laliguras Restaurant (3050m). Watching the porters play volley ball together as the light faded at Ghorepani.

Lodge: Sunny hotel (Ghorepani)
​Altitude: 2870m​
My rating for the Lodge (max 40)
Food: 10
Ambience: 10
Shower and toilet: 10
Sleeping: 10
Total: 40

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Day 10 November 18th
Ghorepani to Banthanti
Distance: 6.5km
Total ascent: 123m
Total descent: 709m
Max altitude: 2881m
Walking time:  2.5hr 

Trekking highlight: I made a point of walking with Alan on the last day, I felt like I'd hardly seen him. The villages down from Ghorepani are beautiful old buildings, mostly painted blue and white with the typical small and organised veggie patches. From our path we could see over the valley back up to the view point of the day before.

Thank you!
I would like to thank firstly our porters who work so hard and reliably get to the lodges before us and have our bags waiting for us to arrive, the guides Tensing, Nurbu and Domar for their experience and care for us throughout the trek, Tulsi for putting together a superb trek itinerary with a pre and post trek program and included our very special visit to Dhampus, and lastly Alan Ward who we relied on for logistics, contingencies and humour. I sincerely hope it won't be your last visit to the Himalayas Alan.

A beautiful drawing in the cafe at Birethanti where we presented the tips and thank you gifts. The drawing has everything to remind me of the beautiful Annapurna region - the lodges, suspension bridges, eagles, rice fields, jungles and more. I hope that the artist won't mind me sharing it on here.

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Closing thoughts 
After this trek I questioned why it is that I enjoy trekking so much and why I enjoy being at high altitude.
I feel so privileged to have the experience for 2 reasons:
1. To be able to afford and logistically get there easily.
2. That the locals welcome us into their way of life and give us standards and comforts, that might be lower than what we are used to, but probably far higher than their own.

I also like to welcome and enjoy the challenges so that those challenges don't become hardships, and I like to embrace, respect and enjoy the differences in culture so that those differences don't become difficulties or misunderstandings.