The Land of the Eagles |
Heather and I had stayed Sunday night in Eigiau Cottage, a bothy in an isolated valley on the northeast side of the Carneddau. The bothy is a small stone hut, homely and cosy but the valley itself has a foreboding and eerie feel about it; a long-abandoned slate mine with the dark slopes of Craig yr Ysfa behind, and of course the 990m long, redundant concrete dam that stretches across the widest part of the valley. | The ugly breaks in this ominous structure are a shocking reminder of the evening 2nd November 1925 when the foundations proved to be too weak and the dam burst, killing 16 people in Dolgarrog, the village below the slopes. Boulders weighing 200 tons were carried down the slopes and cows were left hanging from trees. It was designed to hold 4 million cubic metres of water (1 cubic metre weighs 1 ton). |
Day 1 – Moel Eilio (726m)
One of the party, Sian, had stayed in a cottage on the slopes of Moel Eilio years ago and had brought with her a copy of the ‘typed’ notes and directions which included a grid reference. On the way up we were able to identify where she had stayed – it wasn’t one of the ruins… Once onto the open hill, and gaining height, we easily followed an old boundary, now just a long lump in the ground but quite distinct. |
Sure enough it did so just before the 628m spot height I made a decision to contour round the top of Foel Gron, head south a bit and then approximately southeast to re-join the path at the bwlch before the ascent up to Foel Goch (605m). Once heading NE down the spur of Foel Goch, Cefn Drum, we were in the lee of the wind and could sit on the slopes and enjoy our lunch. The clouds cleared occasionally allowing us to appreciate the magnificent vista in front of us. |
We had come across an injured snipe on the lane, wing and head damage. There was little we could do so we put it gently the other side of the fence, said our goodbyes and left the rest to nature. At the bottom of the hill The Royal Victoria Hotel, on the other hand, were very obliging and welcomed muddy boots, rucksacks and layers upon layers being draped over our chairs in the bar area. |
Day 2 Carnedd Moel Siobod (872m)
A stone’s throw away is the lay-by where we got ready and did final checks and briefing. The Afon Llugwy was looking formidable, carrying a good proportion of the water coming down off the Carneddau (its source is Ffynnon Llugwy Reservoir and joins Afon Conwy at Betws y Coed).
It’s uphill from the start gaining height quickly before it levels out when the open hill is reached. The northeast end of the ridge on Moel Siobod was viewed most of the time on the way along the old mining track to the small, dammed lake (with no name). from here we decided to reach the quarry lake before stopped for our morning coffee. |
Even though the route is challenging and needed focus at times, the path was very much more visible than 2 years ago, I think this is because the café have certainly promoted the mountain in the last 5 years, and in the last 2 years Snowdonia has been swamped with visitors without time to recover.
*cwm - (especially in Wales) a steep-sided hollow at the head of a valley or on a mountainside; a cirque. No exact equivalent word with the right meaning.
One of us thought about visiting the Siabod café on our return so we checked the opening times and reckoned that we would be just in time for refreshments. So exactly 7hrs later we were back supping on very good coffee and stocking up on flapjacks. |
Day 3 Snowdon (1085m)
Instead of taking the lane we took the path up through pretty woodland re-joining the lane by the ‘closed’ café. The owner was about - We were a bit surprised to learn from him that if we’d said on Tuesday that we were staying at Dol Peris he would have put the kettle on. At that point two walkers arrived, having already bagged the summit and were let in for their morning cuppa; they appeared far too busy, knackered or perhaps too important to even give us a friendly ‘good morning’. All quite strange but it gave us something to talk and laugh about.
We checked on our deceased snipe – still intact but definitely dead, poor thing.
We could see over to Moel Eilio which was really satisfying; now everyone could see where they had walked on Tuesday. It had been such poor vis we could have been anywhere but now it all fell into place. Heather told us stories on the way up from her days of working in the café at the top and of being in the rescue team. She was able to tell us that the stationary train and the workers on the track was called the P-Way (P short for permanent) and was there for maintenance. There were quite a few workers bussing about in their hi-vis PPE. I hoped for them that they had some kind of warmth in the train carriage, dealing with all that freezing metal and in such chilling winds made me feel cold just thinking about.
From here the gradient increases and for a while the ground is quite lose but the cold conditions had actually made this easier as the small bits of grit had stuck together, yet it wasn’t slippery. We soon reached the cloud (approx. 900m), although the visibility seriously dropped, the path remained clear and we could battle on. After 3hrs and 20mins (from the start) we reached the top. The heavy frosty-like covering on the rocks was amazing – one of nature’s works of art. It was seriously cold so we found some shelter by the café wall, layered up and devoured what we could in a short space of time before a quick photo by the trig point. |
Care had to be taken on the steps up to the base of the cairn and I ruled out going any further ie up to the trig – it was too slippery, windy and gusty. Everyone was happy with this decision and someone kindly offered to take our photo. If it hadn’t have been quite so cold I would have beckoned for a group hug, I felt quite emotional for the ones whose first time it was on Snowdon – great when it’s so memorable, who needs views! I think we had timed it just right, an hour or two later and there would be a lot more ice where there was water running on the path. |
It was quite a shock to emerge from under the clouds, a superb vista which only added to everyone’s high spirits. We had one short stop at the Half Way House and in 2.5 hrs (from the top), we were keeping to our promise and enjoying a drink in the Royal Victoria Hotel with a very big cheers! Well done everybody! |
After much summing up of the 3 walks and experiences we said our good-byes and embarked on our journeys home.
Summing Up
‘Thank you, Helen of ‘Bryn Walking for Women’ for an amazing 4 days in the mountains of Snowdonia, 3 challenging treks, all very well organised, my favourite was Moel Siabod. I look forward to more events with this group. I would certainly recommend them.’ - Jayne Kirk
‘Exciting, challenging, relaxing and very therapeutic but guided and supported all the way by Helen! A fabulous time spent in Snowdonia – Thank you.’ - Anabel Powell
‘So many memorable moments Helen….involving goats and Siabod flapjacks mostly!! Three excellent and different walks over the three days. A truly memorable few days, diolch o gallon.’ - Sian Davies
‘My favourite day was Snowdon. The change in conditions and immediate scenery was incredible and I felt so happy (was holding back happy tears) that we’d achieved the summit for those who hadn’t been there before. We had done so safely and with no hesitation to turn back on the way if necessary. I felt proud of all of you – fit, competent and capable and above all, smiling through-out. Thank you for your great company and courage and supporting Bryn Walking for Women and for your anecdotes and some of the photos for this blog. Last but not least, thank you to my very good friend Heather for assisting me all the way on this event and providing stories from Snowdonia throughout the week.’ - Helen Menhinick (Mountain Leader and author of this blog)
Words from Writers who Travelled Wales
‘Snowdon or Eryri is no single hill, but a mountainous region, the loftiest part of which, called Y Wyddfa, nearly four thousand feet above the level of the sea, is generally considered to be the highest point in southern Britain. The name Snowdon bestowed upon this region by early English on account of its snowy appearance in winter; Eryri by the Britons, because in the old time it abounded with eagles, Eryri in the ancient British language signifying an eyrie or breeding-place of eagles. Eryri likewise signifies an excrescence or scrofulous eruption. It is possible that many will be disposed to maintain that in the case of Snowdon the word is intended to express a rugged excrescence or eruption on the surface of the earth.
The Wyddfa is about 30 feet in diameter and is surrounded on three sides by a low wall. In the middle of it is a rude cabin, in which refreshments are sold, and in which a person resides throughout the year….. Below on all sides are frightful precipices except on the side of the west.’
H. A. Piehler - Wales for Everyman 1935
‘Y Wyddfa (‘the tomb’ or ‘the view point’ or ‘the conspicuous’) is the central summit, marked by a cairn. The summit of Snowdon is a dismal litter-strewn spot, degraded by its popularity and redeemed only by the view. The Snowdon Summit Hotel consists of two wooden huts, where meals or refreshments (alcoholic or otherwise) are obtainable in summer, and where the night may be spent by those who want to see sunrise. A letter box and telegraph office are available.’
E. G. Rowlands - Walking in Snowdonia 1951
‘It is of interest to note that, while long usage has made Snowdon the name of the peak, the Welsh title is Y Wyddfa, meaning the tomb or barrow, from a legend that a giant was buried there. The word Eryri, still sometimes used, is shortened from “Creigiau Eryri” or the rocks of the eagles, a term applying to the whole region round the summit. Today no eagles fly there.’
H. V. Morton – In Search of Wales 1932
‘On the very crest of Snowdon is a small, wooden hut. I went inside. Men and women were standing before a friendly stove drinking hot coffee. I noticed the train conductor.
‘This cloud will blow away soon?’
‘You’ll see nothing today’ he replied. ‘There will be no view whatever’’
Snowdon Summit - A Bronze Age History or not?
| NGR : SH60985437 Site Type : Bronze Age CAIRN Description : A presumable Bronze Age funerary cairn located on the summit of the highest mountain in Wales. The original cairn has been altered beyond recognition by generations of hill walkers, mountaineers and sightseers. A trig point marks the highest point. Early photographs of the Snowdon summit show a large flat topped cairn. It degrades periodically due to erosion by visitors and the elements, and is reconstructed from time to time. An OS trig point was erected on the summit cairn at some point. Sources : Gwynedd Archaeological Trust , 1998 , PRN 13943 Hollamby, K., A Desk-Based Archaeological Assessment of Snowdon Summit (2003) | |
The History of the Buildings on the Highest Point in Wales
| 1986 to 1989 The Local newspaper said, "Cop Quits for Wales’ Top Job". I was offered the job running the summit building by the previous manager who then became my boss. Four of us lived up on the Summit for the whole season- End of May til the beginning of October. Four travelled up and down by train every day. It was physically the most challenging job I ever did, working 7 days from 8am til (often) 8pm. The best times were in the evening when all the trains and people had gone, and we sat watching the sun set over the Irish Sea. |
The first shelter was built on the summit in 1820, selling refreshments and providing shelter for walkers. By 1847, there were several log cabins and two hotels on the summit. "The Roberts Hotel" which was run by John Roberts and the second "Cold Club" which was run by William Roberts (no relation). There was fierce competition between the two businesses. Apparently, both hotels were in poor condition and more often than not there were more visitors than beds.
Following legal negotiations in 1896, the “Snowdon Mountain Tramroad and Hotels" company took over the responsibility for the two hotels, and by 1898, work began on rebuilding of the hotel and adding a veranda. A small hut was also built for railway staff at the site of the existing cafe, but was not there long. A small station was opened in its place. The buildings were greatly affected by the inclement weather, and by 1930 all the buildings were in terrible condition. It was resolved that a multi-purpose building would be build in their place, to include a hotel, cafe and a train station. The old buildings were demolished over the hillside to make room for the new buildings. Source
Building No.3
The new building was designed by Sir Clough Williams-Ellis, the architect who designed Portmeirion, and the building was completed in 1935. The most prominent features were huge windows on the front and side of the building for visitors to enjoy the scenery. Unfortunately, the windows shattered in a storm six months later, and smaller windows were installed in their place. The cafe was closed during the Second World War and was used by the Ministry of Supply for experimental radio work, and later by the Air Force to develop radar. The Admiralty carried out intelligence work there for a while and finally it was occupied by the Army. Despite the improvements that were made in the 1950s and 1960s, the cafe deteriorated.
In 2004 it was decided to rebuild the cafe and build a new visitors' centre. Clough Williams-Ellis' structure was demolished in 2006 and once again the weather was a hindrance. Source
Building No.4
In 2009 the new café opened
Friday 12th June 2009 The Guardian wrote – ‘ A new cafe and visitor centre at the peak of Snowdon, replacing the 1930s concrete building once described by Prince Charles as the "highest slum in Wales", finally opens today after a tricky construction process repeatedly delayed by bad weather. Rhodri Morgan, the Welsh first minister, is to officially open the £8m building, which is made of granite and intended to blend in with the scenery on the 1,085m peak, the highest in Wales. Officially called Hafod Eryri, the structure by architect Ray Hole, which includes a viewing wall of glass at the front, had been due to open in spring last year but was held up by particularly poor weather conditions.’
And lastly, a poem aptly titled Epilogue
Still the mighty mountains stand,
Round them still the tempests roar;
Still with dawn through all the land
Sing the shepherds as of yore.
Round the foot of hill and scar
Daisies still their buds unfold;
Changed the shepherds only are
On those mighty mountains old.
Passing with the passing years
Ancient customs change and flow;
Fraught with doom of joy or tears,
Generations come and go.
Out of tears’ and tempests’ reach
Alun Mabon sleeps secure;-
Still lives on the ancient speech,
Still the ancient songs endure.
NB. Mabon - God of Welsh mythology, Mabon. He is the Child of Light and the son of the Earth Mother Goddess, Modron and part of King Arthur’s war band.
Bryn Walking and Bryn Walking for Women are trading names for Menhinick Outdoors Limited
Excellent account of our week Helen. It is great to be reminded of our travels and for them to be recorded. I love all the photos. I look forward to your trip and more laughs!
Thank you Helen for a truly wonderful Blog, such a lot of research to enrich our experiences. I felt very emotional reading it.
The work you put in before and after the events is incredible and I am so pleased to have been part of an incredible group of women. All of you are so inspiring.
I am looking forward to attending more.
Thank you.
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